The Dalmatian Islands in Croatia are among the most famous in the Mediterranean region. Wild, rugged, and mostly uninhabited, many are protected as national parkland and offer a varied and diverse cruising ground for an Agana sailing vacation.
An Agana sailing itinerary takes you to the stunningly beautiful turquoise waters of Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, its shoreline indented with coves and bays, marked with rugged peninsulas, and bejeweled with large and small islands just offshore (see Agana maps). A typical 7-day Agana itinerary centers on sailing to the islands of Solta, Hvar, Vis, and Brac, and to the Kornati Islands National Park north of the port of Split. These islands have a wonderful variety of harbors ranging from traditional fishing villages where the pace of life is slow to ports with small cities full of history and charm. The uninhabited islets nearby are remote and dramatic, supporting abundant wildlife. Swimming, snorkeling, and sunbathing at pristine beaches, exploring fascinating archaeological sites, browsing in market bazaars, and dining in restaurants serving delicious local cuisine are among the many pleasures of sailing in these family friendly waters.
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Agana to Maslinica – 7 nm. Your Agana itinerary begins on the day you arrive at the Moorings base. Once you check in, purchase provisions (if you haven’t elected to have us do it for you), and receive your pre-cruise chart briefing, board your yacht at 3:00 P.M. and get under way for a short sail to the southeast, where you’ll find the charming island of Solta off the bustling port of Split. Beyond are the much larger islands of Hvar, Vis, and Brac, each with a variety of harbors to explore. As you approach the western side of Solta, a series of picturesque islets spreads across the sea off the bow. The small harbor of Maslinica comes into view, lush with stands of olive trees (maslina means olive). Ashore are a number of taverns, cafés, and shops. You can also anchor in the adjacent bay of Sesula.
Maslinica to Vis Town – 21 nm. Setting sail from Solta, plot a course nearly due south to the lovely island of Vis, a very popular tourist destination with beautiful beaches and lively nightlife in Vis Town. As you reach the northeastern end of Vis, you’ll see Stonica Bay, where you can relax and take a refreshing swim. Not far is historic Vis Town, established in 397 B.C. Ashore are ancient ruins, monasteries, churches, a Roman amphitheater, and even a palace to explore. Vis is a large, rugged island, but it’s also home to more than 500 varieties of herbs. In springtime, the air is fragrant with the rich scent of rosemary and sage.
Vis Town to Komiza – 11 nm. The third day of your Agana sailing itinerary takes you along the coast of Vis to the picturesque fishing village of Komiza, with a stop at Tiha cove for lunch and a swim. As you get under way again and continue sailing the Vis coast, the forests of pine extend to the shore in places. The distinct and pleasant scent of the pines carries to you on the warm breeze filling your sails. Inland are extensive vineyards, which produce excellent domestic wines, including the dry white Vugava and the red Plavac. Sailing among Croatia’s Dalmatian Islands is a bountiful treat for the senses.
Komiza to St. Clement Island – 23 nm. After leaving Komiza, sailing 5 nautical miles to the southwest brings you to the islet of Bisevo with its ten wondrous caves and rocky shores. Taking some time to enter the famous Blue Grotto (Cave) in a local tour boat is a sojourn into exquisite beauty. At midday, the angle is right to channel sunlight through an underwater opening in the cave wall that illuminates the interior in shimmering blue. You can swim inside the cave; it’s a very unique place to snorkel. Then set a course from Bisevo to the northeast and the beautiful Pakleni Islands just off Hvar Island. The largest of the group is St. Clement, with the splendid Palmizana Cove. There’s an excellent marina there, as well as a pristine white-sand beach. Vinogradace Cove is also scenic and inviting.
St. Clement Island to Hvar Island – 22 nm. The next leg of your Agana sailing itinerary takes you to Hvar Island’s north shore. Just past Cape Pelegrin is beautiful Parja Cove, where you can stop for lunch at the beachfront restaurant. Continuing your sail eastward along the north coast you pass Vrukova Cove, another scenic place to linger. As the afternoon wanes, make your way to Vrboska Cove with its small port town and first-class marina. The village looks like a miniature Venice with stone buildings and a picturesque, multi-arched stone bridge across the narrow inlet at the head of the harbor. Pine forests crowd the steep hills on either side. Ashore are some excellent restaurants. An alternative choice would be to spend more time at St. Clement or at the other Pakleni Islands and take a water taxi to nearby Hvar Town, which is known for its historic sites and nightlife.
Hvar Island to Brac Island – 16 nm. Just across Hvar Channel to the north is Brac Island, the third largest island in the Adriatic. More arid than some of the other isles of the Dalmatians, the rocky pine-studded mountains are obvious as you approach the island from the sea. The beauty is stark, the ambience seemingly remote, but Brac is actually quite populated and home to the two big resorts of Supetar and Bol, which hum with activity during the high season (July and August). As you close with the coast, set a course for the small fishing village of Milna, where you relax for the evening aboard or go ashore to explore.
Brac Island to Agana – 19 nm. The final day of your Agana sailing itinerary brings you northwest to Solta waters once again. If you have time and wish to stop for a refreshing swim, the beaches of Necujam or Stomorska are absolutely splendid. Otherwise, push on to complete the final miles of your adventure in the Dalmatian Islands. As the afternoon wind strengthens, the boat speeds across the shimmering blue waters of the Adriatic Sea, the sails full and drawing. Arriving back at the Moorings base at Marina Agana by 5:00 P.M., you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy dinner at the nearby restaurants, a fitting end to a leisurely foray into one of the best cruising grounds on Earth.
Final Morning
After a restful night aboard, disembark from your yacht at 8:00 A.M. and prepare for your flight home. Alternatively, you could take several days to visit the cosmopolitan and historic city of Split. Excursions from the Moorings base are available to Split and other intriguing sites, including the magnificent waterfalls at Krka National Park.
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